Primary Function: Protect skin from environmental damage and prevent premature aging.
Key Players & Their Roles:
Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid & Derivatives):
- Mechanism: Neutralizes free radicals from UV exposure and pollution
- Proven Benefits:
- Brightens skin tone and reduces dark spots
- Stimulates collagen production for firmer skin
- Enhances sunscreen effectiveness when used together
- Reduces inflammation and redness
- Forms & Stability:
- L-ascorbic acid (most potent, least stable)
- Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (stable, gentle)
- Sodium ascorbyl phosphate (stable, acne-fighting)
- Ascorbyl glucoside (stable, converts to Vitamin C on skin)
- Effective Concentration: 10-20% for L-ascorbic acid
- Best Paired With: Vitamin E and ferulic acid (boosts effectiveness 8x)
Vitamin E (Tocopherol):
- Benefits: Strengthens skin barrier, deeply moisturizes, enhances antioxidant protection
- Synergy: Works best combined with Vitamin C
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3):
- Multi-Tasking Benefits:
- Reduces inflammation and redness (at 2-5%)
- Improves skin barrier function (increases ceramide production)
- Minimizes pore appearance (regulates oil at 2-10%)
- Reduces hyperpigmentation (inhibits melanin transfer)
- Anti-aging benefits (improves elasticity)
- Versatility: Works with almost all ingredients, including retinol
- Concentration Sweet Spot: 5% for balanced benefits without irritation
Green Tea Extract (EGCG):
- Benefits: Powerful antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, may protect against UV damage
- Ideal For: Acne-prone and sensitive skin
Resveratrol:
- Source: Grapes, berries
- Benefits: Antioxidant protection, may support collagen production
Practical Application:
- Morning Use: Apply after cleansing, before moisturizer and sunscreen
- Layerability: Most antioxidants layer well together
- Storage: Keep in cool, dark place; opaque packaging preferred
- Signs of Degradation: Color change (yellow/brown), unusual odor
