Exfoliants: Cellular Renewal Experts

Function: Remove dead skin cells, improve texture, enhance product penetration.

Chemical Exfoliant Categories:

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs):

• Water-Soluble: Work on skin’s surface
• Common Types:
  • Glycolic Acid: Smallest molecule (penetrates deepest)
    • Benefits: Improved texture, fine line reduction
    • Concentration: 5-10% for daily use
  • Lactic Acid: Larger molecule (gentler, hydrating)
    • Benefits: Brightening, gentle exfoliation
    • Ideal For: Sensitive and dry skin types
  • Mandelic Acid: Largest AHA molecule
    • Benefits: Gentlest, antibacterial properties
    • Ideal For: Acne-prone and sensitive skin
• pH Requirement: Effective at pH 3-4
• Important: Increases sun sensitivity—daily SPF essential

Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA):

• Salicylic Acid: Oil-soluble (penetrates into pores)
• Benefits:
  • Unclogs pores and reduces blackheads/whiteheads
  • Anti-inflammatory properties
  • Suitable for oily and acne-prone skin
• Concentration: 0.5-2% for daily use
• Best Application: Leave-on treatments more effective than wash-off

Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs):

• Examples: Gluconolactone, lactobionic acid
• Benefits:
  • Gentle exfoliation with minimal irritation
  • Hydrating properties
  • Antioxidant benefits
• Ideal For: Sensitive skin, rosacea, eczema, first-time exfoliators

Exfoliation Guidelines:

• Frequency: Start 1-2 times weekly, gradually increase to tolerance
• Signs of Over-Exfoliation: Redness, stinging, increased sensitivity, peeling
• Combination Approach: Can alternate AHA and BHA nights
• Post-Exfoliation Care: Hydrate well, avoid other actives on exfoliation nights