Brightening & Specialty Actives

Function: Target specific concerns like pigmentation, acne, and inflammation.

Pigmentation Correctors:

Tyrosinase Inhibitors (Reduce Melanin Production):

• Kojic Acid: Derived from fungi, effective but can be irritating
• Arbutin: Natural derivative, breaks down to hydroquinone in skin
• Tranexamic Acid: Originally oral, now topical; good for melasma
• Licorice Root Extract: Contains glabridin, anti-inflammatory benefits
• Azelaic Acid: 15-20% prescription strength, also anti-inflammatory

Vitamin C: Multiple mechanisms including antioxidant protection and collagen support

Niacinamide: Inhibits melanin transfer to skin surface

Acne-Fighting Ingredients:

Benzoyl Peroxide:

• Mechanism: Kills acne bacteria, anti-inflammatory
• Concentration: 2.5% as effective as higher percentages with less irritation
• Considerations: Can bleach fabrics, increases sun sensitivity

Salicylic Acid: (See Exfoliants section for details)

Sulfur:

• Benefits: Drying, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory
• Forms: Spot treatments, masks, cleansers
• Consideration: Distinct odor

Zinc:

• Forms: Zinc oxide, zinc pyrithione
• Benefits: Anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, regulates oil production

Soothing & Anti-Inflammatory:

Centella Asiatica (Cica):

• Active Compounds: Madecassoside, asiaticoside
• Benefits: Wound healing, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant

Oat Extract:

• Benefits: Soothes itching and irritation, strengthens barrier

Panthenol:

• Benefits: Hydrating, healing, reduces inflammation

Green Tea Extract:

• Benefits: Potent antioxidant, reduces redness and inflammation

Peptides:

• Function: Signal skin to produce more collagen
• Common Types: Matrixyl, Argireline, Copper Peptides
• Benefits: Improves firmness, reduces fine lines
• Usage: Often combined with other anti-aging ingredients