Function: Attract, maintain, and seal hydration in skin.
The Three Pillars of Hydration:
Humectants (Water Attractors):
- Hyaluronic Acid:
- Holds up to 1000x its weight in water
- Multiple molecular weights: Low (penetrates deeper), High (surface hydration)
- Ideal Concentration: 0.1-2%
- Glycerin: Classic humectant, cost-effective, well-tolerated
- Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5): Humectant, anti-inflammatory, healing
- Sodium PCA: Natural skin component, highly effective
Emollients (Smoothers):
- Ceramides: Natural skin lipids, repair barrier function
- Types: Ceramide NP, AP, EOP
- Benefits: Restores barrier, reduces moisture loss
- Plant Oils:
- High Linoleic Acid (good for oily/acne-prone): Rosehip, hemp, grapeseed
- High Oleic Acid (good for dry skin): Olive, avocado, sweet almond
- Squalane: Lightweight, non-comedogenic, mimics skin’s natural oil
- Fatty Acids: Linoleic, oleic, palmitic acids
Occlusives (Moisture Sealers):
- Petrolatum: Most effective occlusive (99% moisture retention)
- Dimethicone: Silicone-based, non-comedogenic, smooths texture
- Natural Butters: Shea, cocoa, mango (provide additional nutrients)
- Waxes: Beeswax, carnauba, candelilla
Barrier Repair Ingredients:
- Ceramide Complexes: Often combined with cholesterol and fatty acids
- Niacinamide: Increases natural ceramide production
- Centella Asiatica: Soothes while strengthening barrier
- Oat Extract: Anti-inflammatory, protective
Application Strategy:
- Layering: Humectant → Emollient → Occlusive (thinnest to thickest)
- Climate Adjustment: Heavier occlusives in dry climates/winter
- Skin Type Matching: Light emollients for oily skin, rich formulas for dry skin
- Day vs. Night: Lighter layers under sunscreen, richer treatments at night
